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科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Any man should have a formal dress, and a pair of comfortable and beautiful leather shoes is an indispensable part of the whole set of formal clothes.

Regarding the type of leather shoes, there are many, many introductions on the Internet, and many are wrong.

First, a slightly thinning classification diagram:

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

As shown in the figure, there are many types of men’s leather shoes that can not be covered. You don’t need to know the knowledge of all types of leather shoes. Today we only talk about the most leather shoes we wear the most. I promise you that after reading this article, you will know more about leather shoes than others.

Before we start, let’s look at a picture of a leather shoes, let us remember the name of each part of the leather shoes in the picture, and then we will mention it in the text.

Question 1: What type of shoes do I wear?

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Before we start talking about the type of shoes, we must know that there are two basic models: Oxford and Derby.

Refer to the picture below, the shoelaces are simply speaking: Oxford can be closed, and Derby is separated.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Some people ask, why do they look similar, but they have to be divided into two categories?

Because Oxford’s shoelaces are tightly tied, they are very fitting. If the feet are wide, or the instep height (Asian people usually have a higher instep), wearing Oxford Shu for a long time will squeeze the feet and uncomfortable. Many friends who have bought Oxford shoes abroad should have experience. If the instep is too high, the middle suture of Oxford upper is not very ugly, and the shoes will deform.

And Derby’s upper plackets can be separated, and the tightness of the shoelaces is adjusted, which will greatly improve the comfort, but it reduces the formal level. However, generally speaking, ordinary people rarely have the opportunity to participate in the official party of Dress Code as Blacktie.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Come, sit down, the curtain is less to drive:

One: Oxford Oxford

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Oxford shoes are always eternal topics in formal shoes. As shown in the figure, the identification method is that the shoelaces are tight and opposite, and the tongue is wrapped below the upper. When you tie your shoelaces, the entire upper looks like a whole, and you can’t see the tongue and have no extra gaps. So it looks more beautiful and rigorous. In addition, the colors are more diverse now, with red, brown, brown, wine red, beef -blooded, various rubbing colors.

It can be said that how many lipstick colors of your girlfriend have, how many colors of men’s leather shoes. (Send this article to your girlfriend, your girlfriend is enough to buy a leather shoes. I just said to my girlfriend.)

PS: After Oxford shoes are put on, it is best to fit at the gap of the placket, instead of being burst out by your instep, or coincide together.

Oxford shoes usually have the following categories:

1. CAP-TOE three-tank/splicing shoes

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Three -connecting leather shoes are the most extensive styles. Of course, the most widespread color is black. The leather on the toes usually use thicker and wear -resistant head layer cowhide. Walking on the upper will produce folds. Comfort. Mu Shao was still worn by a pair of local shoemakers, hand -made three -handed Oxford. Without maintenance, he worn it for 3 years. Finally, the rubber soles could not stand, and the upper was not worn. At present, the more advanced shoes will adopt a solid -specific process, which can be replaced at the bottom. In addition, the color is more diverse now, with red, brown, brown, wine red, beef -blooded.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

2. Wing-TIP Wing-tip Oxford

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

The wing -tip Oxford refers to a leather stitching to the body of the shoe on the toe. There are usually carved flowers. The closed upper is divided into Oxford shoes, but usually we all call such shoes for Brock carved shoes. (Please note: Brock is not a type of shoes, it is a process for shoemakers to handle shoes. Oxford has Brock carved shoes, Derby also has Brock carved shoes, Chelsea boots also have Brock carved shoes. From the top of the wing -tip shoes, from the perspective of a bird’s -eye view, the shape is presented as “W” or “M” shape. Such stitching makes Oxford shoes slightly casual, but it is also formal shoes. One of my favorite models.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

3. WHOLE-CUT one-piece Oxford shoes

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

A piece of Oxford’s upper shoe body is cut from the entire leather without any stitching. Please look down at your shoes. It is usually sewn from a few pieces of leather. The upper toe is used well, and it is almost used in other places. And a piece of Oxford with only one leather completed the shaping of the whole shoes. The appearance looks extremely smooth and tidy, and the quality and process of leather are extremely high. Usually a cow can only be done in the skin of a certain or two parts. Whole Cut is cut as a whole, and the feet are not so big. And it is hand -made, very expensive, expensive. Because we need to wear this shoe very formal, we usually don’t wear it, just look at it. Don’t buy a domestic style, leather control is too bad.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

4. PLAIN-TOE plain Oxford-style Oxford

The plain noodles are spliced ​​from the upper and the back with the two leather. There are no three connections. There are no Brock carved flowers. The upper is clean and there is no stitching. Oxford is more classic is PLAIN-TOE, and the requirements for leather are relatively high.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Two: Derby

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

In addition to Derby, the English name of Derby shoes is also called Blucher and Gibson. It has traced back to 1850 in history. What is the origin story? Essence Essence Rarely typing, then we won’t say it. We are the classification of shoes, and the story is kept in the future.

Ordinary people usually mix Derby shoes with Oxford shoes. Just pay attention to the shoelaces. Oxford shoes are seal, Derby’s non -sealing mouth, and two pieces of leather wearing laces to adjust the looseness, which is more friendly to the sarrel as Asians. Therefore, most people in China wear Derby.

Like Oxford shoes, there are several categories of Derby shoes. You can take a look at it. Compared with Oxford shoes, there is less one -piece.

Three: Brogue

Brock is not a kind of shoe, it is a process. Oxford has Brock, Derby also has Brock, and Brock also has Brock. The shoes and boots of this process are basically made up of different leather. For the sake of beauty, when the leather that is cut is cut, some decorations called Brock crafts are made. This method is cut. With small jagged and carved holes.

The picture above shows Oxford shoes with Brock’s craftsmanship

When the Brock shoes were invented at the beginning, they were considering walking outdoors or rural areas for a long time. Those carved holes were for breathability. At that time, the craftsmen had to hit a few holes at that time. The toe and heels are made of relatively tough leather, which are relatively hard and wear -resistant. In order to increase the comfort, the leather that needs to be bending is more flexible. As the crafts are getting better and better, the carved flowers are becoming more and more refined, and Brock gradually enters which category. At present, many formal Oxford shoes are also twisted and pinched with Brock carved. After all, the Brock’s craftsmanship is well -known, and it is more angry. Consumers like it.

1. One -quarter of Brock Quarter Brogue

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

One -quarter Brock is the simplest and low -key. Just add perforation at the leather connection of the three -tart. Please note that there are no carvings elsewhere. And only a quarter of the CAP-TOE three-tank shoes are made of Brock, and the Wing-TIP wing-tip type does not have a quarter of Brock.

1. Half Brock

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Based on a quarter of Brock, half a quarter of Brock added carved punching on the toe. Half of Brock does not include Wingtip.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

1. All Brock

In the case of Brock, the combination of half -Brock and classic wing -tip, also known as the dovetail carving. The toe has a “W” arc leather stitching. Or follow.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

All Brock is also divided into Shortwing Brogues short -winged Wingbrock and Longwing Brogues.

The wing -winged wing tail is only extended to the shoe workshop.

Long -wing Brock changed his wing tail to the heel.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Four: Mengke shoes Monk

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Meng Ke’s shoes were originally worn by a group of monks in the monastery, which can be traced back to 150 years ago. It is said that the monks in the monastery at that time were leading the trend of dress, so Meng Ke’s shoes were also called monks shoes.

In modern times, Meng Ke’s shoes are getting more and more beautiful, and it is almost close to the formal shoes, especially the double buckle Meng Ke. Double -buckled Meng Ke shoes as a whole look more sense of volume and detail design. Formally and rough feeling. It can usually be used as a formal shoes, and each man is recommended to start with a pair.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Pay attention to wear, Meng Ke’s shoes should be paired with a slightly shorter trousers. When you reach the instep, you must expose the metal buckle. The curtain is long, and all the trousers are just the back of the foot.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

What needs to be mentioned is that in some Mediterranean countries, it may be that the weather is relatively hot and the sea is relatively waves. They have no longer deducting metal buckles, although they are still wearing suits at 40 degrees.

Five: Loafer Loafer

There are two sayings of the origin of loafers. One is said to be improved by the Norwegian based on the Indian animal leather shoes. The second statement is that this is the home shoes worn by the British royal family. I personally believe in the second statement.

There is no shoelaces in Love, the shoes are relatively low, the heels are relatively short, or they are simply flat. It will expose the ankle, so you can’t wear socks in loafers. In order to decorate, a decorative leather like a saddle is usually added. Generally, the leather shoes are very soft in order to wear comfortable wear, and usually, the material of suede/peeling is the main material.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Introduce a few kinds of more common loafers

Set as a head diagram

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

1. Penny loaf shoes Penny loafer

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

The most famous style of Lefu’s shoes was the first representative of the college style. In the 1950s, students often stuffed the Penny coins to the incision of the Lefu shoe upper, and it was convenient to call it under the public telephone kiosk, so it was named.

2. Flames Lefu Shoes TheTassel Loafer

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

It is said to originate from Hollywood, and it also originated from the Ivy University Alliance in the 1920s. However, the good -looking tassel Lefa shoes are pretty good -looking in summer’s leisure time.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

3. Masanlefay shoes TheBit Loafer

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

This is a style that has been in the 1960s. It has been famous by Gucci. GUCCI has added 1 to 2 horse buckles on the Lefu’s upper, which is popular to this day.

4. Driving shoes The Driving Mocs

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

This kind of shoe is improved from the Indians’ soft shoes, adding plastic soles to the soles of the shoe, making the shoes a little more abrasion. If you often go out of the street, you will be smoothed up. The most famous is TOD ‘s’s bean shoes.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

5. Shoes The Boat Shoe

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

The first sailor worked on the deck was worn on the deck. There were two holes on the inside of the shoes, which was easier to flow out the water inside the shoes. Because the leather will deform after soaking the water, the heel is tightly tightened with the rope.

By the 1980s, it slowly became a convenience for ordinary people. Usually wear in summer.

Remember: you must not wear socks in Love shoes, and you need to leak your ankle

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Intersection Like the following:

Question 2: How is our shoes made?

While we are wearing shoes, we must also know the process of shoes, simple production processes, to facilitate our future maintenance, and when buying shoes to distinguish the quality of the shoes, you can see which shoes are good shoes, which shoes can not be available. purchase.

1. Cemanting of adhesive shoes

The technology of adhesive shoes is that he has no technology. Simply put, just put the upper leather on the soles, and it is over. Usually this technology can only be used on shoes with soft soles and large leather and flexible leather. These craftsmanship is fast and cheap, so the quality is not very good, and mass -produced shoes. So you look at the soles of the shoe, usually there are generally no stitching. Of course, there are also shoes that are decorated on the side of the shoe.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

2. Internal stitching Blake-Stitch

Inner stitching, as the name suggests, when the upper and middle leather are sewed on the soles of the shoe (outsole), the line does not walk outside the shoe, walking inside the shoe, so that people can not see the sutures outside the shoe, so it is called called Inner stitching. Looking at the soles on the other hand, you can see the stitching. This inner stitching shoes are relatively cost -effective and comfortable to wear. It is recommended to try one or two pairs.

3. Goodyear Welt

Getter is usually used on the highest quality leather shoes along the strip process. When sewing the shoes, the inner strip and the outer strip are used to firmly clamp the upper with the soles of the soles into one, and can withstand any impact and twist. A cavity is formed between the middle of the shoe and the outsole, which can be isolated from the moisture, and a layer of cork can be laid to ensure the maximum breathability of the leather shoes.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

In addition to ensuring thorough sweating function, natural footprints will also be formed on the soles. At about 15 days of the customer wearing, with the force of the feet, the soles will be reshaped, becoming a pair of matching of the foot shape. “Personal sole” achieves the effect of fitting comfort when walking.

In today’s world, the most distinguished top -level handmade solid -specific shoes customization service takes 4 to 6 months from the feet to the last finished product, and more than 300 processes need to be used. Guded’s hand -made shoes along the bar are also known as “artwork carved artworks”.

The leather shoes of the solid -based process are generally heavier, and the soles of the upper will have a stitching line. Among them, it is subdivided into a garler storm seam. These processes are relatively complicated. We can open a separate process in the specific process.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Guteye Stormwind

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

4. Norwegian seam norwegian

This sewing method is the most complicated and stronger, and it is suitable for the worst Nordic weather.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Of course, there are several types of Norwegian seams, including ordinary Norwegian seams, chain Norwegian seams, and some small shoe families named the sewing name.

These shoes generally start from 5 digits, and the craft views are relatively complicated. All Norwegian seams are artificially sewn. Tailor -made, we can open a separate article. Let’s talk about it in the future.

科普:最全男士皮鞋介绍

Today, the types of leather shoes are introduced here. Some people are interested in next time we talk about boots or solidar.