Queen Mary’s waist in “The Queen of the Peerless”

It has a long history of thin waist aesthetics. Since ancient times, my country has said that “King Chu is fine waist” has been said. Middle -century women have worn the iron waist in order to put on iron. Recently, the “waist seal” has become popular again, which also reflects the attachment of women in the new century. Is the thin waist be beautiful or destroyed? The process behind it is far more difficult than we think.

Those who have watched the “Pirates of the Caribbean” series are probably impressed by Elizabeth who fell into the sea because of the tight waist and could not breathe. Maybe some people think this is an exaggeration,

But this is the state of a medieval woman, and the truth is much more cruel than the movie

Essence

Elizabeth in “Pirates of the Caribbean 1” fell into the sea because the waist was too tight

“腰封”袭来!关于细腰的百年血泪史……

The wave of “40cm waist circumference”

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When did the fine waist aesthetics appear? But what can be known is that it is a kind of opening the medieval back to the end.

Tight underwear called Corset

Essence In the 16th century, the Spaniards invented this underwear. It was made of whale beard and has a inverted triangle. There is a lace behind it to adjust the looseness to make the waist circumference in an ideal state.

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Corset painting in 1878, this CORSET has buckles in front and lace behind.

What really develops thin waist to the extreme is the princess of the King of France Henry II

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Catherine De Meiqi

Essence It is said that her waist is only 40cm, so she hates the thick waist. This greatly stimulated women during this period, and 40cm became the only criterion for judging waist circumference. The underwear made of whales is no longer popular, and it is replaced by iron waist.

French princess Catherine De Meiqi full body portrait

In the 16th century, the waist was said to be introduced from Italy from Italy.

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Queen Elizabeth I also highly respected the waist, which greatly affected the trend at the time. Women in this period to highlight the thin waist,

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Combine the waist with the big skirt

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This method of dressing also had an important impact on the later Baroque and Rococo costumes. From the portraits of Anthony Fan Dike and Francois Buxie, we can see this impact.

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The “Rainbow Portrait” of Elizabeth I, the Queen wearing the waist of this period.

Anthony Fan Dike’s “Portrait of Greasia”, the Baroque period

Francois Bujie “Portrait Portar”, Rococo period

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“You can worship freely, or you can dress freely”

The rise of the French Revolution brings hope for women who have long been in the back of the waist. Because the waist represents the aesthetic orientation and value concept of the high society at that time, in the eyes of the revolutionaries, it became

Symbol of decay and luxurious life

Essence The revolutionaries during this period, together with other aristocratic supplies, are regarded as the object they opposed. After the bus prison was captured, such a slogan could be seen everywhere on the streets of Paris: “Vous Avez La Liberte des Cultes etcostume (you can worship freely, or you can dress freely).”

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Capture bus prison

French enlightenment thinkers also disgusted with waist. Rousseau set two goals for the French Revolution, freedom and nature. He also bluntly said: “Seeing a woman in half halves like a wasp, it is not a pleasing thing. The slenderness of the waist is like everything else. It has its own size. It will definitely become a flaw. “

Jean Jacques Rousseau Portrait

Gibson girl

How long does the waist have not left the fashion circle? It is an American illustrator named Charles Dana Gibson who brought it back to the public. He publishes the illustration of his dream girl in “Life” magazine,

This kind of thin waist, long hair, and hip -lifting girls are called “Gibson girls”

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For a while, it became the object of imitation of girls in the early 20th century. Model Camille Clifford and Evelyn Nestbit were the incarnation of Gibson girls in the eyes of people at the time.

Gibson girl in Charlesdana Gibson

Model Camille Clifford’s whole body photo

Although the recovery of tights in this period is the last glory of its hundreds of years of history, this still cannot stop it from becoming a symbol of this era and is used in artistic creation. Until now, Mrs. Rose in “Titanic” helped the heroine to put on the waist clip can still be called classics.

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From the Titanic, we can see that the waist of this period has grown to the hips.

Don’t be feminine

With the development of the second -generation feminist movement in the early 20th century,

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The waist with a male aesthetic meaning has also become the object of feminist attack

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Essence In the movie “Mona Lisa’s Smile”, the “radical” female teacher played by Julia Roberts questioned and reprimanded her patriarchalism behind it.

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Catherine in “Mona Lisa’s Smile” scolded the waist advertisement

Fashion designers represented by Gabriel Chanel and Paul Perry, through their extraordinary design, accelerate women from liberating the waist. And now, most of the waist we see is related to the subject matter such as SM and Gothic culture.

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The black dress designed by Gabriel Chanel completely liberated women from the huge skirt.

The large long skirt designed by Paul Perry (right) makes women get rid of the thin waist constraints

Gothic waist

However, the fine waist aesthetics did not leave us because of the disappearance of the waist. The renewal of “waist seal” in the fashion circle shows that the exquisite curve is still the goal pursued by modern women, but it is no longer obtained at the expense of health.

The waist at the New York Fashion Week 2017

It can be seen that despite hundreds of years of struggle, the waist has eventually become history.

But if you want to change a consistent aesthetic concept, find the beauty that belongs to himself, people are going to go long.

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[Edit, text/Wang Yixin]